Baltic Diaries...A journey away from home.

Bigger than Christo

You may have heard that Tony and I are finally going to make it official. We'
re getting hitched.

As a matter of fact, we didn't know we would be getting engaged so soon. It was a suprise engagement... at Central Park during the largest public art installation of the 21st Century. That's according to the New York Times.

Saturday morning we went to buy the ring at a Jeweler on 5th Ave, expecting to order the ring and receive it 6 - 8 weeks later. But I warned Tony they might just have my size on hand. They did. This was exciting, but I could tell that Tony's gums were receding faster by the second. Yes ladies and gents, he was nervous!

We had planned on going to see the Christo installation after shopping, so you're on the right track -- we had a good old fashioned Central Park Proposal. As we marched through the Orange Gates Tony became more and more jittery. He began making silly jokes and saying all sorts of incomprehensible things. But we had struck a bargain that because I asked him in out on our first date he would have to do the proposing. Finally we found our way to the pond and Tony was able to say some sweet and endearing words before he plopped the ring on my finger.

We ended the night at Al Di La with a magnificent dinner and a bottle of wine on the house. We're definately going to miss that place when we move.

Here we are as the newly "betrothed" couple.

Trying to be subtle. . .

Reflections.

Emerging from the tunnel.

Winding their way through the park ... feels almost like a circus.

Gates billowing in the wind at Central Park

We're Still Here

Yes, we're still in Brooklyn and haven't trotted off anywhere exciting since our trip to the Baltics. Whenever I have a free moment I daydream about the mushrooms, and beer, the sights, and all of the freetime we had this summer.

I hear that Poland has a tradition of mulling their beer with spices in the winter and drinking it warm . . . has anybody tried that? I'd like to hear reports on it!

We're Back

Yes, we're back in Brooklyn. Daily routines are already beginning and memories are becoming distant.

We'll be back soon with final post and a few reflections on our trip.

In the meantime, book a ticket to the Baltics. They're beautiful, relaxing, fun and the dollar is still in your favor.

Ducks and swans enjoying the water at Treptower Park. It was finally sunny for the first time all day, and all week.

Entrance to Treptower Park Memorial to the Soviet Red Army and the Defeat of Fascism. This is a huge park that dwarfs the human figure and in its total completion of design and formation glorifies the greatness of the Red Army. It is a strange reminder of East German history and the Soviet Occupation. It was also the only trace of the former USSR that we encountered during the entire trip. Former Soviet Republics included.

Treptower Park

Quote from Stalin

Giant marble depiction of the Red Army and Lenin's face looming in the background.

View of the Park from the entrance. Note the white memorials on each side of the grass: they are graced with depictions of the victorious Red Army and quotes from Stalin himself.

The Final Giant Statue at Treptower Park commemorating the victory of the Red Army and the deliverance from Fascism

Auf Wiedersehen!

Berlin - 29 August 2004

Yes I am still here.

It has been hard for me to come up with the right things to say about Berlin. I haven't felt this comfortable and in love with a city since the first time I went to NYC when I was 15. This despite not knowing all that many words in German.

Yes it is a city of slackers, but it is also a city of people that enjoy their lives. If not running around like a chicken with its head cut off for no real reason is slacking, then I'll take slack-hatten.

It is going to be hard to leave. I leave tomorrow with trepadation. My home city, that despite great faults I do love, is currently under attack. When you step away from America you can begin to realize that what you thought while you were there is true. We are involved in a messy situation, and viewing it from abroad lets you see how messy it is.

Now the person responsible for this mess has chosen to bring his party to NYC. To put it mildly, they really would like it if he had taken it elsewhere. Mike Doyle put it best, "It should be noted that of 8 million NYC residents, only 500 thousand are registered Republicans. You do the math and try to figure out why on earth they would choose to convene in the one city that openly despises the Bush administration more than any other... outside of Iraq, France, and just about everywhere else in the world of course." You can find some wonderful info about the protests and other news and views of the RNC in NYC at his site...www.burnlab.net

It does not make me want to go back there very much.

Politics away, more about Berlin. I am a realist, it has its share of problems, but all in all it is a very exciting place to be. The streets swarm with young people and there is a general feeling of creativity and expression. It is a city that will hold many good spots in my memory. Most of you know that I did turn 30 here and Rachel and I also celebrated our 3rd anniversary on 27 August.

Last night, a lot of things that I had always heard talked about, came home for me. Everyone always talks about the Detroit/Berlin connection. Beyond the musical history, the abandoned buildings, and the cities in shambles there is something. We had the opportunity to go to WMF last night for one of Ellen Allien's sets. It was held in the courtyard of an old school. It felt like home. I say that meaning Detroit. The people were friendly and generally unpretensious. They were there to dance and enjoy the music. The problems that generally haunt the nightlife in the US were nowwhere to be found. This is because they let certain things alone. People do not need "Rave Task Forces" and the law interfering with simply trying to have a good time...(more ranting) maybe if the Government spent some of the resources that it wastes on Smoking bans and Legislating Fun, we could begin to progress as a society and have a little more self responsibilty and control.

It has been great here and I am sad to leave it. You may hear from me once more when we return to the police state we call home...

The Creamer and Sugar bowl from WMF

Tschuss

Berlin. A city of slackers, a city of students, a city of cultural treasures and excitement. The cafe culture here starts early and ends late, week night and weekend. But as you've gathered, Tony and I haven't had much time to participate in the daily consumption of Milchcaffe and cigarettes. Instead we start our day with some coffee and yogurt (I obsess about this yogurt whenever I am not here and rejoice in it when I am) then enter out into the city of Berlin, choosing what 99 museums or galleries we can't visit, and picking some we can.

At a party the other night someone suggested that we visit Sammlung Hoffmann the largest private collection of art in Germany, right in the middle of Mitte. Erika Hoffmann opens up her apartment every Saturday and her staff gives a guided tour through a selection of her collection from the past 35 years. All sorts of goodies like Nan Golden, Frank Stella and younger artists making a name for themselves. The apartment was also fun to see because it provided great views of the city.

Later that day we made our way to the Museum Night -- a party for everyone on Berlin's streets and in their museums from the evening until 2 am. There were dance and music performances on the street, beer and wine, and as you can see, everything was illumniated with all sorts of light. With all the entertainment outside waiting in the rain wasn't so bad. And once we stepped into the museum, we were transported by some fantastic art in an exhibition titled Vision as Nature including the Ophelia painting by John Everett Millais.

Finally we ended our night at WMF club with Ellen Allien. I'll let Tony tell you about that, but if you want my 2 cents, it was a lot of fun. And I don't know what WMF club has to do with the WMF designs but I've fallen in love with them. It all started with a little creamer at a restaurant in Tallinn....

While all of my friends are in NYC for the Detroit/NYC head to head, Rachel and I hit WMF in Berlin for Ellen Allien's 1st Berlin Stop on the "My Parade" Tour

In one of the Voids of the Jewish Museum...an installation by an Isralei Artist "Fallen Leaves" Large Iron Faces which you are invited to walk over...it makes quite a haunting sound.

I think that it is Southern Cuisine...lost in translation...Similar to the "Titanic Travel Agency"

The Kunst Werk Gallerie....this is where you will be Stephanie for the Shrinking Cities Exhibition.... www.shrinkingcities.com

Again The Holocaust Tower...Isolating the members from everything but indirect light and the sounds of the outside world

Holocaust Tower-Jewish Museum

Altes Museum Museum Night

Museum Night outside of Berliner Dom.

Waiting in line for the Altes Museum exhibition -- Nature as Vision.

Altes Nationalgalerie illuminated for the Museum Night

Night of the Late Museum... waiting to enter in the rain. It didn't stop people from going out.

Sophienstrasse

Church yard on Sophienstrasse

Exterior of Jewish Museum

Interior of Jewish Museum

Garden of Exile at the Jewish Museum. A very disorienting experience.

Shoe Maker. . . And did I tell you, there is a candle maker a block from our house. And of course, a baker and a butcher.

A graveyard we passed on our walk through Kreuzberg

This summer could use a little.

I know our trip will be over soon. . . but don't tell me now.

The Stilwerk Mall. . . doesn't look exciting, I know, but 4 stories of shops filled with fun stuff.

Alchemy or a drink. At this point I'd take either.

On the way to the Bauhaus Archiv. Tiny little museum with some great examples of Bauhaus furniture (kind of like your house Steph)

The shadows are supplied for you on some streets...in case of power failures....it is also easier to know where to lurk.

Rachel and Alex

Gedachtniskirche....Near Zoo Station and Tiergarten

Bicycle Fetish

The Architechure and Fashion are forward here....the music however.

Grill Walker....a mobile sausage vendor

Bauhaus Archives designed by Gropius completed after his death

Bauhaus Archives

Serious detail

Run Lola Run

The Baltics were full of cafe sitting, church viewing and fresh air. Sure, we strolled the streets and we thought our feet were tired. But then we got to Berlin. From moment one our feet have hit the asphalt and our knees are hurting, but we barely notice because there is just so much to see and so many things beckoning us to go go go. We thought six days here would be generous enough to satisfy our curiousity, but it is disappearing faster than the weather changes. Thats vacation for you.

As you can see from our photos, yesterday we went to Alexanderplatz, the Museum Insel though we are saving those museums for later,
Potsdamer Platz and we went to the Painting Gallery and the Design Gallery at Kulturforum. We dodged a torrential rainstorm, walked through the park and wound up searching for the Dutch embassy Koolhaas designed, but our poor tired eyes completely missed it.

After going to many "wireless" cafes, we ended up at Starbucks, one of the only places were you can actually get the wireless service. The other places offered it but they didn't sell the cards that let you log onto their service. Thank you Starbucks.

Later that night we finally made our way home and realized we hadn't sat down to a meal the entire time we've been here. Just street food. That's very unlike us, as you know. So we raced of to a restaurant not far from our house and feasted on fish, beef and outstanding wine. We were some of the only people who really seemed to be enjoying the wine (they had a great list) so our waiter gave us extra nice service and let us sample all sorts of things.

That day turned into this day... and I can hardly remember what it is we saw and did. A lot of shopping, I think. We just left a design mall www.stilwerk.de -- stocked with all the big names in design. We drooled throught he four stories and even had a good excuse to buy something for Jenava's upcoming wedding.

I may be boring you but if I don't write down all these mundane details I'm sure to forget everything.

Ciao

Imagine someone walking across the bridges, both top and bottom, it makes really cool sihlouettes. Lazy photographer here.

Memorial to the Murdered Jews...This got started in 1988 and it is still not finished.

Very "Wings of Desire"

Looks fake..it isn't...just down the street from Tresor

As far as we could get inside the library without filling out tons of forms...they are highly protective of their books.

Sony Centre

Potsdamer Platz

People Sculptures (wooden)

TV Tower

Alexanderplatz World Clock

They don't like our president here either.

Berlin Bear Soccer mural Prenzlauer Berg

words words words

Now the sun shines.

Building.

Bikes everywhere.

Frank Gehry Building we think....let us know if otherwise. Things aren't marked very well here and Berlin is growing too fast for the guidebooks to keep up.